Paysage viticole de l’île du Pico

Brève description

Paysage viticole de l’île du Pico

Justification d'inscription

Critères (iii) et (v) : Le paysage de l’île du Pico reflète une réponse unique à la viniculture sur une petite île volcanique, qui évolue depuis l’arrivée des premiers colons sur l’île, au XV^e siècle. L’extraordinaire paysage de petits champs ceints de murs de pierre façonné par l’homme témoigne du travail de générations de petits paysans qui, dans un environnement hostile, sont parvenus à créer un mode de vie durable et un vin de grande valeur.

Description longue

The Pico Island landscape reflects a unique response to viticulture on a small volcanic island and one that has been evolving since the arrival of the first settlers in the 15th century. The extraordinarily beautiful man-made landscape of small, stone walled fields is testimony to generations of small-scale farmers who, in a hostile environment, created a sustainable living and a much prized wine.

Pico, uninhabited until the mid-15th century, is the second largest of the nine islands of the Azores; Pico Mountain (a stratovolcano) dominates the island. It reaches a height of 2,351 m above sea level, the highest point in Portugal. Part of the site is an actively farmed viticulture area immediately south of the island's main town, Madalena; to the north the area was formerly used for growing vines and figs but has since been largely abandoned and is now extensively covered by vegetation, mainly clumps of heather as much as several metres high. Within the Criação Velha area, traditional winegrowing continues, producing a sweet, much-prized and once widely exported desert wine called Verdelho.

The geometrical network of small walled fields covers the strip of flat land along the coast. Constructed from irregular weather-worn black basalt stones, these tiny fields covered rocky land of no use for arable cultivation. They were constructed to shelter vines from sea breezes with walls around 2 m high. Groups of fields have two types of patterns: in the first, six small fields form a group with one main entrance; in the second and more common arrangement two parallel groups of fields 'interlock' with narrow gaps at the ends of cross-walls to allow access along the strip. In general the fields were used for growing vines. Traditionally and still, cultivation and cropping is entirely by hand. None of the enclosures contain soil. The purpose of the little walled plots was to protect the crops from Atlantic winds and salt spray; and for the walls to provide support for the vines themselves.

Rock tracks along shore and between the fields : Immediately below the farmed zone is a strip of lava coastline, roughly 50-100 m deep and too exposed to wind and salt spray. Along it ran a track, occasionally made-up but otherwise on the bare rock where the wheels of ox-carts loaded with produce ground out permanent ruts. The track was joined by other tracks running down through the vineyards at right angles to it. The whole network was connected with storage sheds and small ports along the rocky shore.

Cellars, distilleries and warehouses : Small groups of cellars are located in the settlements and near to cultivated land. These small one- or two-storey buildings, built from dry random, black, basalt stones, with shallow clay tile roofs, were inhabited seasonally during the grape harvest, with the upper storey being used as accommodation. Some settlements have as many as thirty cellars. Warehouses are larger storage buildings, similarly constructed.

Small ports and harbours : Lajido village, near Santa Luzia, is one of the larger of such ports, inhabited and now very much officially conserved. Its installations in place include a small quay, a ramp for sea-access, church, warehouses, tide well, and a manor house available to the public as an in situ museum.

Tidal wells : Owing to shortage of surface water, wells were dug through the rock to pick up underground watercourses. Either rectangular or square, their deep shafts are lined with random stone. Around 20 still survive in the area, providing often brackish water for household use.

Houses and churches : In the northern part of the site there are several nucleated settlements with a strong urban character, such as Cachorro de Santa Luzia. Here are the houses of the viticulturalists together with many cellars and warehouses. In the west there are fewer small towns and more scattered cellars. The local vernacular architecture is most immediately characterized by brilliant white exteriors and, rarely, black-walled buildings, notably in Lajido.

Description historique

L'histoire documentaire de Pico et de sa viticulture ont fait l'objet d'études approfondies mais les vignes elles-mêmes ont été à peine étudiées, et certainement pas d'un point de vue archéologique et structurel. Il est difficile à ce stade de corréler les deux types de témoignage.

Les références documentaires sur la viticulture dans la seconde moitié du XVe siècle ont pu faire croire aux habitants que le système de clôture des terrains tel que nous le connaissons aujourd'hui date de cette époque. Il se peut que les zones proposées pour inscription, en particulier la zone de Criaçao Velha, contiennent une zone de viticulture ancienne et qu'elles puissent même inclure des fragments de murs anciens, mais il n'existe aucune preuve de la date du début de la construction du système de maillage des terrains tel qu'il existe aujourd'hui. Ce système n'appartient clairement à aucune période déterminée, car sa structure montre des phases et des modifications qui suggèrent une évolution au fil du temps.

D'un point de vue très général, après un défrichage initial autour des premiers établissements très espacés, des groupes de champs clos de murs en pierre ont probablement été aménagés à mesure que l'exploitation des terres se développait aux XVIe et XVIIe siècles. Les principaux arrangements selon un axe principal ont pu être réalisés au XVIIIe siècle lorsqu'un petit nombre de propriétaires terriens, qui ont symbolisé leur présence par des manoirs, possédaient une grande partie de la terre. Tandis que les petites parcelles ont toujours été nécessaires pour des raisons pratiques, leur disposition actuelle selon un alignement rigoureux pourrait dater du XIXe siècle, époque à laquelle, à la place des grandes propriétés, les changements sociaux et agricoles ont encouragé la prolifération d'une mosaïque de propriétés terriennes cultivées par un grand nombre de « petits fermiers ».

Les Portugais ont introduit la production vinicole sur l'île, probablement au XVe siècle. Au XVIe siècle, les Franciscains et les Carmélites l'ont améliorée. La production a atteint son apogée au XIXe siècle, avec des quantités si importantes qu'une grande partie en était exportée.

Depuis le phylloxéra qui a frappé les vignes au XIXe siècle puis l'exode rural du XXe siècle, l'exploitation de la plupart des enclos de pierre a progressivement été abandonnée.